If this gives you the same feeling it gives me, then you understand perhaps just a touch of what it means to be a from the coast of California. Let me know if you feel it. If it was Wales, I'd call it hiraeth, but it's a warmer beach (Australia actually), and I guess as a Californian I can only say, "duuuuuude."
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
3 comments:
Ah, that's how Jesus did the walking on water thing.... he was really a surf dude. ;) :D
BB
Mike
Yep, but did you feel the spirit?
duuuuuuude. that was so peaceful. me es muy stoked now.
although my family only lived in the bay area for the first 6 years of my life, when i took up surfing 5 years ago, it was like it sparked something deep within me, reconnecting me back to my roots. i guess that's why we're planning on (hoping to) heading back that way in a year's time. how beautiful it would be to live close to a nice longboard break.
there's *never* been a time where i've come out of the water and NOT felt closer to God in some way. maybe it's just feeling the pulse of the earth in each passing wave, and knowing just how vulnerable we all are, when compared with the power of nature.
thanks for that post...i was already having a nice day, and this made it a lot better.
Post a Comment